Warning, this post includes talk about nudity!
My iPad has gone naked since I got it as a present from the husband this past Christmas. Shameful and scandalous isn’t it. Right now some of you are disappointed that the nakedness I am talking about is a hunk of electronics, others are most certainly relived.
Truthfully my iPad is not completely naked (it’s not a total floozy) it does wear a Smart Cover. I did however want a fun padded sleve to slip it into for transport.
Instructions and measurements for sleeves with and without Smart Covers are included below. Don’t ask why I have both versions. I may or may not (may) have built 2 of these cases as my first attempt was not large enough to include the Smart Cover. Stupid Smart Cover! Is that an oxymoron…stupid smart?
Project Ranking
Difficulty – Moderate (only because you need a
sewing machine and sewing around the padding is a bit tricky but less so if you
have a zipper foot)Frustration – Low
Makeability – 100% Worth It
Materials
*Outer Main Fabric (Back and Pocket Front)
-I picked somewhat durable fabric for the outside verses just regular cotton. Outdoor fabric, home décor, or anything with a bit more heft to it will probably wear better in the long run. If you plan on packing your iPad in your purse, work bag, etc. you will probably want something with a bit more weight.
*Outer Accent Fabric (Front)
-I chose a linen fabric. I was worried about the sheerness of the linen I had so I actually just made my fabric cut on the fold and doubled the linen over. Worked like a charm.
*Inner Liner Fabric (Inside sleeve and inside pocket)
-Regular cotton works great. A Fat Quarter should be enough material for all of the linings.
*Ironing Board Padding
-This padding gives a really nice, stiff sleeve. You could just use regular batting if you wanted a bit more flexible sleeve.
*Button (~1 ½ inch)
*Elastic cording
Note these instructions and measurements are for a snug cover/tight fit.If you want something a bit looser you could just add a ½ inch to the measurements below.
Cut List – iPad 2 (no Smart Cover)
*Outer Main Fabric
1
piece – 11 x 8 3/8 (Piece A)
1 piece – 6 1/4 x 8 3/8 (Piece B)
*Outer Accent Fabric1 piece – 6 1/4 x 8 3/8 (Piece B)
1 piece – 11 x 8 3/8 (Piece C)
*Inner Liner Fabric
2 pieces – 11 x 8 3/8 (2 Pieces D)
1 piece – 6 1/4 x 8 3/8 (Piece E)
*Ironing Board Padding
2 pieces – 10 1/8 x 7 5/8
*Elastic Cording
1 piece – 6 inches
Cut List – iPad 2 with Smart Cover
*Outer Main Fabric1 piece – 11 2/8 x 8 7/8 (Piece A)
1 piece – 6 3/4x 8 7/8 (Piece B)
*Outer Accent Fabric
1 piece – 11 2/8 x 8 7/8 (Piece C)
1 piece – 11 2/8 x 8 7/8 (Piece C)
*Inner Liner Fabric
2 pieces – 11 2/8 x 8 7/8 (2 Pieces D)
1 piece – 6 3/4 x 8 7/8 (Piece E)
*Ironing Board Padding2 pieces – 11 2/8 x 8 7/8 (2 Pieces D)
1 piece – 6 3/4 x 8 7/8 (Piece E)
2 pieces - 10 3/8 x 8 1/8
*Elastic Cording
1 piece – 6 inches
Instructions are the same for both versions of the
cover.
Step 1: Pin pieces B and E right sides together along one of the longer sides and sew with a ¼ inch seam. After sewing turn fabric out so that the rights sides are facing out and iron the seam so that it lays flat.
Step 2: Make a ¼ inch top seam across the folded spot of your pocket pieces. I would recommend placing a few pins along your folded seam just to make sure that it stays down while you are doing the top stitching.
Step 3: Take piece C and line up the pocket piece you just sewed along the bottom and pin the 2 pieces together like in the picture above. You should have your main fabric facing you and the liner fabric down against piece C. Determine where you want the seam for your pocket. I placed my seam right down the middle of the cover but depending on what you may want to put in your pockets or the pattern you have chosen for your fabric you may want to tweak the placement a bit. Make a small mark on the fabric for where you want to sew your seam.
NOTE: I am not a terrific “blind” seamstress. I like to be able to use guides to make sure
I am sewing straight. You will most
likely cover up your guides with your fabric.
I made my own guide with a piece of masking tape on the side of my
machine arm.
Step 4: Pin the front piece you just assembled and one of the D pieces right sides together along the short side that does not have the pocket. Be careful not to pin and sew together on the pocket end. Sew with a ¼ inch seam and then turn and press out the fold flat. Set this piece aside for now.
Step 5: Take your piece of cording and make a loop
with the two ends together like shown in the picture. Hold the 2 pieces together with a small piece
of masking tape. Step 4: Pin the front piece you just assembled and one of the D pieces right sides together along the short side that does not have the pocket. Be careful not to pin and sew together on the pocket end. Sew with a ¼ inch seam and then turn and press out the fold flat. Set this piece aside for now.
Step 6: Place your final D piece and piece A right sides together lining them up along one of the short ends and pin. Measure to the middle of the pinned pieces and place the elastic cording loop in between the 2 fabric pieces loop (the loop needs to be inside the pinned pieces, not sticking out the top) and pin in place. You will want about ¼ inch of the loop ends sticking out of the fabric, it should not be flush with the fabric ends.
Step 7: Using a ¼ inch seam sew the pieces together and the loop in place. Turn the fabric right side out and iron the fold flat. Your loop should now be visible sticking out of the sewn together pieces.
Step 8: Position one piece of padding in between the layers of fabric on your front piece (the one with the pocket). Place the padding as close to the top sewed seam as possible without bunching up the sewed seam. The padding piece should be positioned equal distant from the long sides. Once in position carefully fold the other piece of fabric on top of the padding and in the padding into place along the sewed seam side. You can put a couple pins along the other sides if you want just to hold everything into place. Repeat this process for your back piece (the one with the loop).
Step 10:
Sandwich the front and back pieces with the padding inside with the lining facing out for both of the pieces. Line up all of the edges and pin. Take special care
to make sure that the pocket pieces are not folded in. You should have about ½ inch of fabric along
each side except for the top (the top should have the folded/pressed edges and
the loop).
Step 11:
This is the only really tricky part.
You want to sew about 1/8 to ¼ from the padding. You do not want to sew through the padding! You also don’t want to sew the top shut! I sewed one cover using my zipper foot and
one without. They both worked fine. I would recommend making sure you reinforce
around the corners by backstitching a few times on each side of the corner to
make it a bit stronger.
Step 12: Trim of any excess fabric along the edges and especially at the corners. Now is the fun part, you get to turn your cover right side out! Depending on how tight you made your cover it may take a bit of manipulating to get it turned out. Gently push your corners out with a bamboo stick (or something else). Your corners will most likely be a bit rounded especially if you are using heavier weight fabric and you made the snug fit sleeve.
Step 13: Final step! Place your button where desired on the front panel. You will want to make sure it is in the middle from the sides and is within range of your loop. Sew the button in place by sewing through the front cover including the padding and inner lining.
Now your iPad is fully clothed in a stylish sleeve!
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