No one ever accused us of not having enough projects going at the same time. This past weekend we worked on the deck, planted the garden, planted the flower pots, dug and sprayed dandelions, shopped for patio furniture, purchased bushes for the backyard, played with a baby, and built the picture shelves.
After pretty much running all weekend I made the following observation: Either we need additional days in the weekend or we need fewer projects.
One of those things we can control.
We didn't control the projects well this past weekend.
Easy DIY Picture Shelves
Link to project start posting here
Project Rankings
Difficulty - Easy
Frustration Level - Low
Makeability - 100% Worth It
Materials
Crown Molding (Note: You want to have 2 flat surfaces on the crown. You can make the shelves as beefy as you want depending on the size of crown you get. We wanted the shelf to be fairly skinny so we went for a small crown)
MDF Board (Note: The width of the board will be the width of your shelf. You probably don't want to go too big here unless your crown is really thick and beefy. If you get too big of a shelf and put weight out on the front it may not be able to support it all. We stuck with a 3 1/2 inch width. That easily works for the frame width and even allows some small decor items.)
Thin board for the shelf lip (we used lattice board)
Paint (If you want to do a stain you will need to switch out the MDF for a wood board instead)
Step #1:
Determine the length of your shelf/shelves. You will want to cut your boards (all the same length) before you paint. I didn't actually do this so I ended up having to do some touch up painting when the shelf was up on the wall.
Step #2
Paint all shelving pieces. Make sure you paint all sides of the MDF board as well as the lattice board. You will see all of the edges of these 2 pieces. You will not need to paint one of the flat sides of the crown as it will be against the wall.
Step #3
Deterimine the location for your shelf/shelves. If you are doing multiple shelves on top of each other, like we did, you will need to make sure that you have sufficient spacing between them to get your frames on the shelf. Locate your studs in the wall. Frames get heavy. You will want to make sure that you go into a few studs. Using a nail gun (if you have one...if you don't you should they are awesome) nail your crown molding piece to the wall.
Step #4
Next position the MDF board flush on the crown molding and nail it down into the top of the crown.
Step #5
Position the lattice board on the front of the MDF board, creating a lip for your shelf, and nail into place.
Step #6
You will probably want to fill in any nail holes and do some touch up on the paint.
There you have it. Now comes the hard part...at least for me! What frames and pictures to select.
FYI after looking at a ton of different picture frames I did end up getting all of my frames from IKEA. I was going for a bit cleaner/simpler look so I choose simple frames in a couple similar styles. I do like the look of a bunch of different styles of frames...but not for me.
Add a few small decor items if you want and call it a day. The beauty of this project is that you can easily switch out photographs, frames, etc. No drilling and hanging frames on the wall.
Before
Concept
After
I am really happy with how this project came out. I even like the red color!
I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas. I think I sat down yesterday for the first time in 5 days. The holidays are exhausting, especially if you are pregnant!
I somehow managed to throw together the ottoman "packages" before everyone came over to the house for soup and candy house making. I really should have left this project for next year instead of trying to cram it in last minute but...
Slipcover Packages
Project Rankings
Difficultly - Easy
Frustration Level - Low
Makeability - 100% worth it!
Materials
Fabric
Ribbon
Bow
Warning! I just kind of threw these together not really caring if my seams were good or anything. They are going to sit under my table for decoration so I didn't take any great pains. If you are looking for a precise tutorial with perfect corners you came to the wrong place!
Step #1:
Measure the dimensions of what you want to cover and then add some extra for seam allowance. You want your slipcovers to be pretty snug but not too snug that you can't get them on. I ended up adding 1 inch to each of the sides using a 1/4 inch seam allowance with left about 3/4's of give which seemed to work out great.
Step #2:
This is the hardest part especially if you don't have square ottoman's. Lay out all of your pieces so that you know which sides connect to each other. I actually got messed up (I am going to blame pregnant brain) and ended up having to rip out a ton of seams the first time I tried to assemble one of them. I worked one side at a time pinning them together and then sewing with a 1/2 seam allowance. I did leave about 1/2 inch open on each end of the piece. This allows you to turn under the bottom edge to make it look nice. It also allows you to piece together the corners.
Step #3:
When you get to a corner just kind of bunch and pin all of the pieces together (as shown in the picture and sew all the way to the edge to finish up your corner.
Step #4:
When you get to your last piece you may have to make an adjustment to make your slip cover a bit tighter. I ended up sewing a 1 inch seam allowance for the final piece as 1/2 inch would have made the cover a bit sloppy. Again this is a really rough decorative/non-function cover so I improvised.
Step #5:
Note: I did not do this step but if you want a more finished look you can turn under all of your bottom edges and sew them. I just kind of tucked mine under the ottoman for this year...maybe next year I will finish the seams (but probably not).
Step #6:
Put your bows on. I crapped out an bought a bow for the top of my ottomans. My bow making abilities leave a lot to be desired. Done.
When I started to think about the nursery I didn't want to go the super matchy matchy bedding/decor set route. Not that there is anything wrong with that it is just not my style. I really enjoy selecting or making individual pieces myself. Early on I found the perfect material for the window seat in the nursery. A plaid pattern with dusty pinks and sage greens. From there I knew I wanted to focus more on colors and patterns than an actual theme. I also didn't want to go overboard with the pastels. So I chose the sage green and the dark dusty rose to be my accent colors in the room.
I looked a bit at window coverings to use for the curtains on the closet but did not find anything that I loved...So out came the sewing machine.
I found 2 fabrics that were perfect and decided to make my own curtains. It seems like it would be pretty easy to piece them together...and it was!
I love the result it is exactly what I wanted. A pop of color with a bit of pattern. I really like the way they frame the closet.
Project Rankings
Difficultly - Medium
This gets a medium only as it is a bit difficult to calculate and determine lengths that you need for the fabric. You need to take a number of things into account. I tried to list them all below. I have also included the dimensions I used as a starting point. The actual piecing this together is a cake walk.
Frustration Level - Low
Makeability - 100% worth it!
Materials
Fabric -
I used 2 different kinds but obviously you could do more or less. As far as how much fabric you need it will depend on the length of your panels and the width you need. the specifics listed below are for what I used on my closet.
My dusty pink fabric came from Joann's. It is a home decorator fabric.
My gingham fabric is from IKEA. It is also a nice home decorator weight. I am not sure if you would want to mix a simple quilt cotton and a decorator weight...2 cottons would probably work though.
1/2 inch fusible tape
Normal sewing stuff, pins, thread, sewing machine, etc.
Step #1:
You will need to measure your area to determine the width and length of your panels. I can't stress enough that you should measure twice and cut once! You will need to determine if you want your curtains hitting the floor or not, I did not. You will also need to determine how high above your window or closet you want to place your curtain rod. If you are doing multiple fabrics you will need to determine how much length of each you want. I wanted my second/bottom fabric to be smaller than the first as I wanted the pattern piece to only be an accent and not overpower the room with the gingham pattern. For the width of your fabric you will need to determine if the curtains are just for shoe or if you want them to be able to be untied and pull across your entire closet or window. I did so I did make the panels wide enough to cover up the closet (in case it is a mess and company is coming over). All of those decisions will factor into your dimensions. In addition you will need to account for seam allowances as well as the width of your curtain rod.
Listed below are what I did and why so that if you are inserting your own measurements you will need to make your adjustments. I added 1/2 inch to each edge for a seam allowance. This allowed me to sew a 1/4 inch, turn under a 1/4 inch and top stitch.
Dusty Pink Top Fabric - Cut 2 of this size for the 2 panels. 56 inches long x 36 inches wide
Gingham Bottom Fabric - Cut 2 of this size for the 2 panels.
27 inches long x 36 inches wide
Additional material is needed if you plan on sewing the tiebacks. You could also use cute ribbon or something like that. Or you can make your own. The instructions for the tie backs are at the end of the curtain tutorial.
Step #2:
Pin the right sides of your 2 pieces of fabric together. Sew together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press your seams out.
Step #3:
Cut your 1/2 wide fusible tape in half to the width of your panel. Place one of your 1/4 inch tape strips under the pressed out seam as shown in the picture. Iron in place. Remove the tape backing and iron the fabric seam down onto the tape. Repeat for the other side of pressed seam.
Step #4:
Next up pick one of the long sides (not the top or the bottom of the panel) and turn fabric under 1/2 inch (turn under to the wrong side). I pressed out the turn under and also pinned it (I like to use pins...).
Step #5:
Sew in place using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step #6:
To make it more "finished" looking I turned under another 1/2 inch and sewed another 1/4 inch seam allowance. That way I don't end up with any rough fabric edges. I could also just turn under twice and then sew once but of course I didn't really think about that at the time.
Step #7:
Repeat Steps 4-6 for the other long side of the panel.
Step #8:
Working on the bottom of the panel turn under and sew as described above. Because you are folding under some of the long sides those will be a bit bulky but should go through your sewing machine...hopefully! At the end of this step all of your sides should look nice and finished with the exception of the top part of the panel.
Step #9:
Working with the top of the panel fold over 1/2 inch as described above and sew using 1/4th inch seam allowance.
Step #10:
Measure 2 inches from your newly finished edge down an pin. This will create the pocket that you will slip the curtain rod into. See picture.
Step #11:
Sew into place. I sewed directly over my seam from the turn under as shown in the picture.
Tie Backs Instructions
Step #1:
Cut 4 pieces of your desired fabric ~30 inches by ~5 inches.
Step #2:
Pin 2 pieces right sides together and sew around all edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You will need to leave about 1-2 inches open in order to turn out your fabric.
Step #3:
Turn your fabric right side out. Press out the seams being sure to fold and press under your open portion.
Step #4:
Top stitch around the entire tie back using a 1/4th inch seam allowance.
There you have it curtains!
Earlier this year I posted a tutorial for making car seat covers. I have made about 8 of them over the past couple of years for friends and family. I enjoyed making them but it was always a little bitter sweet as I was eagerly awaiting the chance to make one for my own baby.
So of course when we got the baby news this craft went on the "to do" list.
I feel in love with this fabric from the Riley Blake Apple of My Eye collection. I like that it is girly without being overly pink. The red polka dot fabric has apples mixed in periodically which I love!
Click HERE for the link to the original tutorial. This is a really easy project without any really difficult steps. They really go together quickly and make good baby shower gifts.
This was the first sewing project I completed for my little girl and there were a couple tears of overwhelming joy along the way.
I can't wait to pull back the cover and see a smiling face looking up at me.
Nesting...it is a real phenomenon that pregnant women tend to go through. It is the drive to make your home ready for a baby. The husband does not believe that this is a real condition. He believes it is an excuse women have made-up to go shopping and force their husbands to do projects around the house. He can believe what he wants but as the wife is the one growing the baby she calls the shots.
My main nesting focus has been organization and maximizing storage space. We are lucky to have a large amount of storage space already but for some reason I just envision that as soon as the little one arrives she will take over every inch of space with diapers, bath paraphernalia, headbands and bows, toys, and of course...clothes!
I don't like clutter. I like things to have a place that is easily accessible.
I wanted make a bit more storage space in the extra bathroom that will become baby bath central. My focus was clearing/cleaning out the linen closet so that it could be used for baby bath items. Up until this project the extra bathroom linen closet was used for towel storage for all bathrooms, including the master bath. I didn't want a bunch of homeless towels so space needed to be created somewhere else.
Do any of you have a toilet room? A toilet room is a complete waste of space in a master bedroom that only houses a toilet. While some, including the husband, might argue that function alone is important enough I couldn't help but feel we were wasting a storage opportunity.
Pinterest to the rescue!
I stumbled upon this great usage of space from laramarkdesigns on the HGTV website...just add some shelves! I loved the chunky look so the husband came up with the following plan that used 2x4's. It ended up being a pretty cheap project, looks great, and provides some extra storage space freeing up the baby bath room.
Win, Win, Win!
Chunky Wood Shelves
Project Rankings
Difficulty - Medium (You do need wood working tools including a planer)
Frustration - Low
Makeability - 100% worth it!
Materials
2x4's
1x4's
Stain or Paint
Wood Glue
Instructions
Step #1: Determine the number of shelves you want and the desired length and width. The width will just be how many 2x4's you want to glue together. We ended up using 4 2x4's so the total width was about 16 inches. The husband used 1x4's to rest the shelves on instead of trying to anchor the shelves to the walls themselves. If you want more of a "floating shelf" type look you may want to figure out a way to direct mount the shelves to the wall and skip the 1x4 shelving brackets. If you want to use the shelving brackets you will need to measure the following for each shelf....2 pieces that are the shelf width minus 1 inch (the width of the 1x4), and 1 piece that is the length of the shelf.
Step #2: Cut all of your 2x4's to length and glue them together with wood glue. Clamp the pieces to together and allow to fully dry. ***A tip from the husband is to try and find some fairly straight/non-warped 2x4's it will make gluing and the next step easier.***
Step #3: Cut your 1x4's if you are making the shelving brackets.
Step #4: Once your shelves are dry you will need to run them through a planer to get them smooth. If you don't have a planer you can probably use a sander to get some of the smaller height differences in the wood buffed out.
Step #5: After wiping down your shelves to get rid of the sawdust you are ready to paint or stain your shelves. You will also want to stain/paint your 1x4's.
Step #6: Install your shelving brackets by placing the long piece at the back of your wall. This piece will go from edge to edge of your wall. Next install your 2 side pieces. They will butt up against the back piece shelving bracket which is why they are 1 inch shorter than the width of your shelf. Take care to get your shelving brackets level or else your shelves will not be flat and they might wobble. No one like a wobbly shelf!
Step #7: Place your shelves on the brackets and enjoy your new found storage space.
Holy cow I am not even sure where last week went! All I know is that I didn't get much done in the way of crafts or home projects. I did however manage to make a car seat canopy for one of my employees that is having a baby boy in the next couple of weeks.
I guess that counts as crafty, right?
Last year I was on a mission to find a pattern for the cute baby covers I had been seeing everywhere. I didn't have much luck on the web and even finding a pattern I could buy on ETSY wasn't as easy as I thought it should have been. I ended up pulling together a few different techniques and making some tweeks here and there. Everyone seems to go about sewing these in a slightly different manner. You can get pretty crazy with rick-rack and embellishments but I tend to like them a bit simpler.
Here's what works for me.
Project Rankings
Difficulty - Easy
Frustration - Low
Make-ability - 100% worth it
Materials
2 kinds of fabric each 1 1/4 yard ( I usually get 1 1/2 to be sure)
Fusible interfacing (~l/4 yard)
2 Buttons (1 inch diameter)
4 inches 5/8 wide sewable velcro (do not get the sticky kind, it will mess up your needle..don't ask how I know)
Ribbon (16 inches of 1 1/2 inch wide ribbon)
Compass (for drawing)
Instructions
Step #1: Cut a 42 x 36 inch rectangle from each fabric. Determine which fabric will be the top of your canopy and which will be the underside. You will also need to determine the direction you want your fabrics to lay if there is a pattern that has a particular direction.
**Note if you have a directional pattern the 36 inch side goes across the baby carrier from side to side while the 42 inch side goes from front to back.
Step #2: Create a template for rounded corners. Take a piece of paper and line it up as shown in the picture by either using a cutting mat or ruler. Measure 2 inches along each side then 2 inches up. Place a compass point on the upper point. Extend the compass pencil out so that it hits both marks along the edge. Draw a line. Cut along the line and you have a pattern for rounding your corners!
Step #3: Line up your rounded pattern along each edge of your 2 fabric rectangles. Pin your pattern to the fabric, trace and cut. You should end up with 4 rounded corners on each of your 2 fabric pieces.
Step #4: Determine which of your 2 fabrics you want to use for your handles. I typically choose the fabric that I selected for my underside. I like the contrast against the other pattern. Cut 4 10x4 inch pieces.
**Note if you have a directional pattern the 10 inch side goes front to back while the 4 inch side goes side to side.
Step #5: Cut 2 9x3 inch pieces of fusible interfacing.
Step #6: Take 2 of your small 10x4 handle pieces and iron on the interfacing to the WRONG side of the fabric. This will give your handles a bit more strength.
Step #7: Take one of the pieces with interfacing and one of the plain fabric handle pieces and pin them right sides together. Sew 3 of the 4 sides together (leave on of the short sides open) with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. You need to leave one side open so that you can turn the handle right side out. Repeat with the other handle pieces.
Step #8: Carefully clip the corners and turn the handles right side out. Fold the open side under ~1/2 and press all sides. I typically pin the open side shut. Sew a 1/8 inch top stitch around all 4 sides of each handle.
Step #9: Cut 2 2 inch pieces of each side of the velcro (one side is the scratchy side, the other side is soft). Fold your straps in thirds and iron the creases. I don't measure this or anything just fold and press.
Step #10: On the upper side of the first fold (see picture) eyeball the middle of the strap and pin one of your scratchy velcro pieces. On the upper side of the other fold place one of the smooth pieces of velcro in the middle of the strap and pin. Double check that the pieces line up when you fold the pieces together like you were closing the strap. If they line up correctly sew the velcro onto the strap as close to the edge of the velcro as possible. Sew the other piece. Repeat all steps for the second handle.
Step #11: Cut 2 8 inch long pieces of your ribbon. Fold your ribbon into thirds like you did your fabric handles. Position your ribbon onto one of your fabric handles, center your button, and sew the button onto the fabric handle. You will be sewing through the ribbon as well as the velcro and fabric. Repeat for the second handle.
Step #12: This step is my least favorite. It is kind of tricky to work with the big fabric rectangles. Find a large work space and line up your 2 large fabric rectangles right sides together. You will want to put pins fairly close together as working with this much fabric things tend to shift around a bit.
**A couple of tips. Make sure your fabric is completely smoothed out before you begin pinning. You don't want wrinkles between the 2 fabrics once you start pinning. Don't panic if your pieces don't seem to match up 100%. I usually have to trim a bit here and there to have them layout perfectly.
Step #13: Sew all around your pinned 2 pieces using a 1/2 seam allowance making sure you leave about a 6 inch opening (not sewed) along one of the edges (it don't matter what edge) so that you can turn the cover right side out.
Step #14: Clip your corners. Because these are large rounded corners I typically notch them a few times. Turn your cover right side out.
Step #15: Turn your opening under 1/2 inch and pin. Press your seam all the way around the cover. Sew a 1/8 inch top stitch all around the cover sewing the opening close. Now your ready to attach your handles!
Step #16: Fold your cover in half matching up the 2 36inch sides. Measure 11 1/2 inches from one of the outer sides. The right hand side of one of your handles should line up against the 11 1/2 inch position. Measure 3/4 inch down from the fold side. Position the top of your handle along the 3/4 inch position. Open your handle and pin in place on the one fold of the handles that does not have either piece of velcro. Repeat on the other side of the canopy for the second handle.
**Note the handle should open toward the open side of the bottom of the canopy, away from the fold.
Step #17: Sew your handle down by stitching a 2 inch line about 1 inch down from the top fold on the handle, and then from the bottom fold on the handle (see picture). Repeat for the other handle and you are finally done!
Nothing too hard with this one but there are a bunch of steps!
When I started planning the laundry remodel I knew I wanted to incorporate a bunch of fun patterns. What is more fun or trendy than chevron!
I am so excited to finally get to share this project. I actually finished these up a few weeks ago but didn't want to show them off until I could put them up on the black and white stripped wall.
Swoon...I am in love!
Project Ranking
Difficulty - Easy
Frustration - Low
Makeability - 100% Worth It
Materials
Fabric
Card stock paper
Cricut (or some other stencil method)
Frames
Cutting Mat (optional)
My frames were from Ikea. I wanted pretty thin frames as I didn't want them to stick out from the wall too much as the space in the laundry room is pretty tight. I didn't want to keep getting caught on the frames and yanking them off of the wall.
Instructions
Step 1 - Iron and measure out your fabric.
Step 2 - Decide on your wording, size, and font. Cut out your letters.
Step 3 - In order to easily arrange the lettering in the frame I used a quilt cutting mat. I arranged my frame face down. Lay out your letters facing backwards until you get the location and the spacing you like. You can use the hash marks on the mat to get even spacing. Carefully fold the fabric down over the letters. This is the trickiest part as the letters could move a bit on you. I didn't glue my letters down in anyway but that would probably work out great.
Step 4 - Close up and hang. Easy peasy.
Cheap and quick wall art.
I am really happy with the way the color and pattern contrasts against the black and white wall. The laundry room is starting to all come together...finally.
While the husband was away playing tennis this past week I decided to spend the night with Roy G. Biv.
Scandalous!
I needed a splash of St. Patty's day color and cheer upstairs in the reading nook so a fun scrappy rainbow pillow seemed to fit the bill.
Project Ranking
Difficultly - Moderate
Frustration - Low
Makeability - 100% Worth It!
Materials
Rainbow Fabrics
*I used broadcloth but if you don't want it to fray so much you may want to use a bulkier type fabric like a good quality quilt cotton.
*To make the pattern as written below you will need 1 1/2 inch wide strips by 42 inch long for each of the colors you choose. If you get 1/8 of a yard of each you will have extra material.
Backing Fabric (main body of the pillow)
*The pillow is 17 inches x 20 inches. You will need 2 pieces of that size.
Quilt Batting (Optional)
*I used a very light weight linen fabric so I added a piece of batting to each linen panel. When stuffing with Polyfill for pillows I have found adding the batting makes the pillow look less lumpy in the end.
Polyfill
Threads of various colors
Step 1: Cut your backing and batting fabrics (if desired). You will need 2 of each at 17 x 20 inches.
Step 2: Cut your rainbow strips. Each color will be 42 inches long x 1 1/2 inches.
Step 3: Prepare your rainbow fabric strips for gathering. I use the 2 string method for making gathers. If you have never gathered before it really is quite easy.
First you will need to put your sewing machine on the longest stitch setting you have available. Position your fabric strip the long way under your sewing foot (you will sew the 42 inches) and sew long straight stitches at a 5/8 inch seam. Clip your strings. Flip your strip around and sew another long straight stitch 5/8 on the other side as shown below. Repeat for all colors.
NOTE: A couple of tips when sewing the gathering stitch guides. You do not need to sew using matching thread as you will be removing these threads later so any color will work. As you will need something to hang onto when doing the gathering you will want to leave about 5 inches of length on each of your threads. Also be sure NOT to put in a setting stitch or backstitch as you need to be able to pull the gathering stitch guides out later on.
Step 4: Find the middle of each of your sewed color strips. Pinch the middle with your finger and gently pull both of your looser thread, typically the bobbin threads, so the fabric bunches up as seen below. Bunch up the other side so the entire strip is bunchy (is that a word, is it spelled right?)
Step 5: Take one of your backing pieces. You will be marking 3 dots.
First mark is at 10 inches (on the 20 inch side) and 3 1/2 inches from the top. This mark will be where you place the middle of the red strip.
Second mark is 2 inches from the right side and 4 inches from the bottom. This is where the right side of the red strip of the rainbow will start.
Third mark is 2 inches from the left side and 4 inches from the bottom. This is where the left side of the red strip of the rainbow will end.
Step 6: Pin the middle of the red strip at the mark you made. Gently spread out your ruffles so that the ends of your strip hit the other 2 marks you made. Pin the strip in a semi-circle pattern. The red strip needs to go the furthest so you will need to adjust your ruffles so that you have enough length. If you pull out too many of your gathers no problem. You can always scrunch it back up again.
Step 7: Make sure your sewing machine is set back to your normal stitch length (back from the long stitch you used while making the gathering stitches). Sew down the middle of the 2 gathering stitches using a coordinating color of thread. You will want to set these stitches as they are not coming back out. Do NOT pull out the gathering stitches yet.
Step 8: Using the gathering stitch as a guide pin your next strip ~5/8 inch from each other. Sew and pin each color.
NOTE: You will end up with some extra length on each of your remaining color strips. You will only want to sew down your strips to the same point as your red strip. You will cut of the extra later.
Step 9: Gently pull out your guide stitches by pulling the at the bobbin threads. I will say this was a bit tricky because of the curves in the strips. When in doubt whip out your seam ripper.
Step 10: Cut off the bottoms of your strips so they are all the same length.
Step 11: Pin your batting (if using) to the back of each of the backing pieces (one will have your rainbow on it).
Step 12: Pin your backing pieces right sides together and stitch using ~5/8 seam allowance. Make sure you leave yourself at least 4-5 inches of opening to turn your pillow out. Clip any excess seam and clip your corners.
Step 13: Turn out your pillow and poke out your corners using a bamboo stick.
Step 14: Stuff to desired fluffiness with Polyfill and sew your opening closed.
Now all you need is a pot of gold!
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