Easy DIY Picture Shelf

 

No one ever accused us of not having enough projects going at the same time.  This past weekend we worked on the deck, planted the garden, planted the flower pots, dug and sprayed dandelions, shopped for patio furniture, purchased bushes for the backyard, played with a baby, and built the picture shelves.

After pretty much running all weekend I made the following observation:  Either we need additional days in the weekend or we need fewer projects. 

One of those things we can control.

We didn't control the projects well this past weekend.

Easy DIY Picture Shelves
Link to project start posting here

Project Rankings

Difficulty - Easy
Frustration Level - Low
Makeability - 100% Worth It

Materials

Crown Molding (Note: You want to have 2 flat surfaces on the crown.  You can make the shelves as beefy as you want depending on the size of crown you get.  We wanted the shelf to be fairly skinny so we went for a small crown)

MDF Board (Note: The width of the board will be the width of your shelf.  You probably don't want to go too big here unless your crown is really thick and beefy.  If you get too big of a shelf and put weight out on the front it may not be able to support it all.  We stuck with a 3 1/2 inch width.  That easily works for the frame width and even allows some small decor items.)

Thin board for the shelf lip (we used lattice board)
Paint (If you want to do a stain you will need to switch out the MDF for a wood board instead)

Step #1:
Determine the length of your shelf/shelves.  You will want to cut your boards (all the same length) before you paint.  I didn't actually do this so I ended up having to do some touch up painting when the shelf was up on the wall. 

Step #2
Paint all shelving pieces.  Make sure you paint all sides of the MDF board as well as the lattice board.  You will see all of the edges of these 2 pieces.  You will not need to paint one of the flat sides of the crown as it will be against the wall.

Step #3
Deterimine the location for your shelf/shelves.  If you are doing multiple shelves on top of each other, like we did, you will need to make sure that you have sufficient spacing between them to get your frames on the shelf.  Locate your studs in the wall.  Frames get heavy.  You will want to make sure that you go into a few studs.  Using a nail gun (if you have one...if you don't you should they are awesome) nail your crown molding piece to the wall.

Step #4
Next position the MDF board flush on the crown molding and nail it down into the top of the crown.

Step #5
Position the lattice board on the front of the MDF board, creating a lip for your shelf, and nail into place.

Step #6
You will probably want to fill in any nail holes and do some touch up on the paint.

There you have it.  Now comes the hard part...at least for me!  What frames and pictures to select.

FYI after looking at a ton of different picture frames I did end up getting all of my frames from IKEA.  I was going for a bit cleaner/simpler look so I choose simple frames in a couple similar styles.  I do like the look of a bunch of different styles of frames...but not for me.

Add a few small decor items if you want and call it a day.  The beauty of this project is that you can easily switch out photographs, frames, etc.  No drilling and hanging frames on the wall.

Before

 

Concept

 

After

 

I am really happy with how this project came out.  I even like the red color!

Gingham Style

 

When I started to think about the nursery I didn't want to go the super matchy matchy bedding/decor set route.  Not that there is anything wrong with that it is just not my style.  I really enjoy selecting or making individual pieces myself.  Early on I found the perfect material for the window seat in the nursery.  A plaid pattern with dusty pinks and sage greens.  From there I knew I wanted to focus more on colors and patterns than an actual theme.  I also didn't want to go overboard with the pastels.  So I chose the sage green and the dark dusty rose to be my accent colors in the room.

I looked a bit at window coverings to use for the curtains on the closet but did not find anything that I loved...So out came the sewing machine.

I found 2 fabrics that were perfect and decided to make my own curtains.  It seems like it would be pretty easy to piece them together...and it was!

I love the result it is exactly what I wanted.  A pop of color with a bit of pattern.  I really like the way they frame the closet.

Project Rankings

Difficultly - Medium
This gets a medium only as it is a bit difficult to calculate and determine lengths that you need for the fabric.  You need to take a number of things into account.  I tried to list them all below.  I have also included the  dimensions I used as a starting point.  The actual piecing this together is a cake walk.
Frustration Level - Low
Makeability - 100% worth it!

Materials

Fabric -
I used 2 different kinds but obviously you could do more or less.  As far as how much fabric you need it will depend on the length of your panels and the width you need.  the specifics listed below are for what I used on my closet.

My dusty pink fabric came from Joann's.  It is a home decorator fabric.

My gingham fabric is from IKEA.  It is also a nice home decorator weight.  I am not sure if you would want to mix a simple quilt cotton and a decorator weight...2 cottons would probably work though.
1/2 inch fusible tape
Normal sewing stuff, pins, thread, sewing machine, etc.


Step #1: 
You will need to measure your area to determine the width and length of your panels.  I can't stress enough that you should measure twice and cut once!  You will need to determine if you want your curtains hitting the floor or not, I did not.  You will also need to determine how high above your window or closet you want to place your curtain rod.  If you are doing multiple fabrics you will need to determine how much length of each you want.  I wanted my second/bottom fabric to be smaller than the first as I wanted the pattern piece to only be an accent and not overpower the room with the gingham pattern.  For the width of your fabric you will need to determine if the curtains are just for shoe or if you want them to be able to be untied and pull across your entire closet or window.  I did so I did make the panels wide enough to cover up the closet (in case it is a mess and company is coming over).  All of those decisions will factor into your dimensions.  In addition you will need to account for seam allowances as well as the width of your curtain rod.
Listed below are what I did and why so that if you are inserting your own measurements you will need to make your adjustments.  I added 1/2 inch to each edge for a seam allowance.  This allowed me to sew a 1/4 inch, turn under a 1/4 inch and top stitch.

Dusty Pink Top Fabric - Cut 2 of this size for the 2 panels.  56 inches long x 36 inches wide

Gingham Bottom Fabric - Cut 2 of this size for the 2 panels.
27 inches long x 36 inches wide
Additional material is needed if you plan on sewing the tiebacks.  You could also use cute ribbon or something like that. Or you can make your own.  The instructions for the tie backs are at the end of the curtain tutorial.

Step #2:
Pin the right sides of your 2 pieces of fabric together.  Sew together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Press your seams out.

Step #3:
Cut your 1/2 wide fusible tape in half to the width of your panel.  Place one of your 1/4 inch tape strips under the pressed out seam as shown in the picture. Iron in place.  Remove the tape backing and iron the fabric seam down onto the tape.  Repeat for the other side of pressed seam.

Step #4:
Next up pick one of the long sides (not the top or the bottom of the panel) and turn fabric under 1/2 inch (turn under to the wrong side).  I pressed out the turn under and also pinned it (I like to use pins...). 

Step #5:
Sew in place using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step #6:
To make it more "finished" looking I turned under another 1/2 inch and sewed another 1/4 inch seam allowance.  That way I don't end up with any rough fabric edges.  I could also just turn under twice and then sew once but of course I didn't really think about that at the time.
Step #7:
Repeat Steps 4-6 for the other long side of the panel.

Step #8:
Working on the bottom of the panel turn under and sew as described above.  Because you are folding under some of the long sides those will be a bit bulky but should go through your sewing machine...hopefully!  At the end of this step all of your sides should look nice and finished with the exception of the top part of the panel.

Step #9:
Working with the top of the panel fold over 1/2 inch as described above and sew using 1/4th inch seam allowance.

Step #10:
Measure 2 inches from your newly finished edge down an pin.  This will create the pocket that you will slip the curtain rod into.  See picture.

Step #11:
Sew into place.  I sewed directly over my seam from the turn under as shown in the picture.

Tie Backs Instructions

Step #1:
Cut 4 pieces of your desired fabric ~30 inches by ~5 inches.

Step #2:
Pin 2 pieces right sides together and sew around all edges using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  You will need to leave about 1-2 inches open in order to turn out your fabric.

Step #3:
Turn your fabric right side out.  Press out the seams being sure to fold and press under your open portion.

Step #4:
Top stitch around the entire tie back using a 1/4th inch seam allowance.

There you have it curtains!

Cloth-Quick Project-Felt Valentine Wall Hearts

During all of the headboard shenanigans I got a bee in my bonnet about Valentine’s Day decor in the master bedroom.  After surfing Pinterest for some inspiration I came across a super cute felted heart wreath from The Idea Room.

I then spent the next 2 weeks running around like a crazy person to every craft/hobby store in town trying to find Styrofoam hearts.  Clearly people are stocking up on Styrofoam hearts before the end of the world because NO one had them.  Not willing to give up I decided to make my own.  I ended up purchasing a big flat sheet of Styrofoam and cutting out 3 heart shapes.  My initial plan was to cut out the middle of each heart so they would be “hollow” in the middle similar to the original inspiration but I thought a bigger fuller heart might be fun and it looked so quick and easy…

This is a good time to introduce a new feature on the blog: Project Rankings.

You often see projects given a difficulty ranking.  It is a nice way to figure out if you are going to be in over your head.  However the difficulty ranking alone does not tell the whole story.  So as an exclusive feature of the Wood & Cloth blog you will also get a “frustration” and a “make-ability” ranking.

Difficulty Ranking

Easy = Minimal tools needed, only requires one person,hard to mess-up, so simple you could do it while watching cheesy Lifetime movies (or sporting events if that is more your style)

Moderate =  Power tools or sewing machine may be needed,may require more than one person, a few tricky parts here and there, you will need to pay attention to certain parts of the project so that you avoid either bodily harm or a massive redo/goober

Difficult = Potential for having to buy specialty tools/items, you are most likely going to need help, almost every step needs to have calculations/measurements checked or has the potential to leave you with fewer appendages/fingers than when you started

Frustration Ranking

Low = Project goes together as expected, takes as much or less time than you anticipated

Medium = You threaten to quit the project at least once but fewer than 3 times, seems or nails need to be ripped out multiple times, takes double the amount of time it should

High (aka: Flames of Fury, I Swear to Everything Holy, Kill Me Now) = you threaten to quit the project more than 3 times, takes 10 times longer than you expected, crying is involved

Make-ability Ranking

100% Worth It = Projects are typically easy or moderate with low or medium frustration rankings.  The project turns out great with minimal effort and relatively painless.

Once Is Enough = Easy, Moderate, or Difficult projects with either a Low or Medium frustration ranking.  Project may look great but had a few frustrations or difficult steps along the way, or the project may not have turned out as amazing as desired.

Should Have Just Bought It = (aka: When Hell Freezes Over, Only If Someone is Paying Me to Make It) These projects are typically difficult and almost always have a High frustration ranking.  The project may have turned out perfect but the time and effort to get there was not worth the loss of your sanity or the amount of time wasted from your life.  This category is also used for projects that when finished do not bear even the slightest resemblance to the inspiration piece. 

Felted Valentine Wall Hearts

Project Ranking

Difficulty = Low
Frustration = High for 3 Hearts, Medium for 1-2
Make-ability = Once Is Enough

Materials

½ inch thick Styrofoam sheet
Felt (~1 yard for a single 12 inch solid heart)
Pins
Upholstery Staples (optional)
Wire (optional)

Step 1:  Draw out the size and shape of heart you want to make on a piece of paper and trace it onto the Styrofoam.

Step 2: Cut out the Styrofoam heart shape. 

Step 3: Using a circle shape as a guide, I used the bottom of a red plastic cup (~2-3 inches) trace and cut a bunch of felt circles.

NOTE:  Step 3 and Step 4 are the reason the Frustration Ranking is so high on this project.  When I stated a bunch of felt circles I meant hundreds.  While I didn’t actually count the circles I know how many pins I had when I began.  For my 3 ~12 inch solid hearts I ended up cutting about 900 pieces of felt.  I probably could have gotten away with bigger felt circles which may have helped but I liked the way the tighter smaller circles looked.  If you are only doing one heart, a smaller heart, or are cutting out the middle of the heart to make it “hollow” this project may actually be enjoyable.  Having small children that can use scissors would also be a plus.

Step 4: Fold each felt circle in half and then in half again so it looks like a fortune cookie.  Place a pin through all 4 layers of felt at the corner you made and stick it to the Styrofoam.  Continue this process placing the felt pieces fairly close together so that you don’t have holes or gaps where you can see the Styrofoam.

NOTE:  I played around a bit with the placement and positioning of the felt tufts.  You want some texture and differences so make sure you don’t pin them all going the same direction and alternate between keeping the folds tight and loosening them up a bit.

Step 5:  There are numerous ways you could make your hearts wall hanging ready.  I simply took 2 upholstery staples, measured equal distance down from each lobe on the heart and pushed the staples into the back of the heart.  I them wrapped a thin piece of wire between the staples and hung them.

Even though I still see felt circles in my sleep the project came out looking even better than I thought it would.  If you have only one heart to make I highly recommend this project as an easy and semi-quick way to put a little love in your home. 

If you want to make three or more…you have been warned.